Accra's Food Scene: A Feast Worth Travelling For
Accra is one of West Africa's most vibrant and welcoming capitals, and its food scene is nothing short of extraordinary. From smoky roadside chop bars to upscale restaurants serving elevated Ghanaian cuisine, the city offers an incredible range of flavours that reflect its rich cultural heritage. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveller, eating your way through Accra is an adventure you'll never forget.
Overview
Ghana's capital sits on the Gulf of Guinea and is home to around 3.5 million people. It's a city that moves fast, laughs loud, and cooks even louder. Accra has become an increasingly popular destination for food lovers drawn to its bold, spiced dishes built on staples like plantain, yam, rice, and fresh seafood. The culinary scene blends indigenous Ga and Akan traditions with influences from across West Africa, the Caribbean, and beyond. It's a city that takes pride in feeding people well, and it shows at every turn.
Essential Information
- Currency: Ghanaian Cedi (GHS). As of 2024, roughly 1 USD equals 15–16 GHS. Most restaurants in upmarket areas accept cards, but cash is king at street stalls and local spots.
- Best time to visit: November through March offers drier, cooler weather, making it the ideal time to explore outdoor food markets and beach bars.
- Language: English is the official language, so communication is easy for most travellers.
- Street food budget: Expect to spend $1–$3 USD for a full street food meal. Mid-range restaurants typically run $8–$20 per person, while high-end dining can reach $30–$60 or more.
- Safety tip: Accra is generally safe for tourists. Stick to well-known neighbourhoods like Osu, Labadi, and Cantonments, especially after dark.
Where to Eat
Accra's neighbourhoods each carry their own culinary personality. Osu, the city's most cosmopolitan district, is packed with restaurants, rooftop bars, and lively night markets along Oxford Street. It's the best place to find both local classics and international options within walking distance of each other.
For authentic street food, head to Makola Market in central Accra. This bustling bazaar is surrounded by food vendors selling kelewele (spiced fried plantain), waakye (rice and beans cooked with sorghum leaves), and fresh coconut water. Arrive before noon for the best selection.
Top spots to try:
- Buka Restaurant (Osu): A beloved institution serving traditional West African dishes in a relaxed, open-air setting. Their egusi soup and jollof rice are outstanding. Mains around $10–$15.
- Azmera (Labone): A popular neighbourhood favourite for grilled tilapia served whole with banku (fermented corn dough) and spicy pepper sauce. Budget around $8–$12.
- The View Bar & Grill (Labadi Beach): Perfect for sunset dining with fresh seafood and a cold Club beer in hand. Expect $15–$25 per person.
- Nima Street Food Strip: For adventurous eaters, this bustling stretch in the Nima district offers smoky suya skewers, fried yam, and grilled corn from local vendors for under $2.
- Santoku (Airport Residential): A slick contemporary restaurant that brilliantly fuses Ghanaian ingredients with Asian cooking techniques. Perfect for a special night out at $25–$40 per person.
Don't leave Accra without trying chichinga (spiced beef or chicken skewers), fresh pineapple from a roadside cart, or a bowl of groundnut soup with fufu. These are non-negotiables.
Getting There
Accra's Kotoka International Airport (ACC) is well connected to major global hubs. Direct flights operate from London Heathrow (British Airways, approximately 6.5 hours), New York JFK (Delta, around 10 hours), and Amsterdam (KLM). From within Africa, connections run frequently from Nairobi, Lagos, Johannesburg, and Addis Ababa via Ethiopian Airlines and Kenya Airways. Return flights from the UK typically start around $550–$800 USD, while transatlantic fares usually range from $900–$1,400 USD depending on the season.
Accommodation Options
Accra offers accommodation to suit every budget, with most visitors choosing to stay in the Osu, Cantonments, or Airport Residential areas for easy access to restaurants and transport.
- Budget ($30–$60/night): Christianborg Guesthouse and Cocoloko Backpackers offer clean, sociable stays close to central attractions.
- Mid-range ($80–$150/night): Labadi Beach Hotel and Alisa Hotel are popular choices with pools, decent restaurants on site, and reliable WiFi.
- Luxury ($200+/night): The Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast City is Accra's most prestigious address, offering five-star service, a rooftop pool, and an excellent in-house restaurant overlooking the city skyline.
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