Welcome to Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is one of those cities that grabs you by the collar and refuses to let go. From the passionate rhythm of tango echoing through cobblestone streets to world-class steakhouses serving cuts that redefine what beef can be, Argentina's capital is a sensory overload in the very best way. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveller, BA always has another layer to reveal.
Overview
Buenos Aires sits on the western shore of the Río de la Plata and is home to roughly 15 million people across the greater metropolitan area. Often called the "Paris of South America," the city blends European architecture with a fiercely Latin soul. The currency is the Argentine peso, but most travellers benefit from exchanging USD or EUR at the informal (but widely accepted) "blue dollar" rate, which can stretch your budget considerably. The best times to visit are spring (September–November) and autumn (March–May), when temperatures hover between 15–25°C and the city is alive with outdoor events. Spanish is the official language, though you'll find English spoken in most tourist areas.
Top 10 Activities
- Watch a tango show in San Telmo: Skip the overpriced tourist venues and head to a milonga — a social tango dance hall. La Viruta in Palermo charges around $8 USD entry and offers lessons before the main event.
- Explore La Boca and Caminito: This colourful working-class neighbourhood is iconic. Wander the painted alleyway of Caminito, browse street art, and grab empanadas from a local bakery for under $2 USD.
- Visit the MALBA museum: The Museum of Latin American Art houses a stunning collection of 20th-century works. Entry is around $6 USD and it's closed on Tuesdays.
- Stroll through Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood: These leafy neighbourhoods are packed with boutique shops, craft beer bars, and some of the city's best restaurants. Sunday's Feria de Palermo market is not to be missed.
- Attend a football match at La Bombonera: Watching Boca Juniors play at their home stadium is a full-body experience. Book tickets through official channels in advance — expect to pay $20–40 USD.
- Eat your weight in steak: Head to Don Julio in Palermo or La Brigada in San Telmo for an unforgettable parrilla experience. Budget around $25–40 USD per person with wine.
- Wander the Recoleta Cemetery: Free to enter and genuinely fascinating, this labyrinthine cemetery is the resting place of Eva Perón and reads like an open-air architecture museum.
- Take a day trip to Tigre and the Paraná Delta: Just 30 minutes by train from Retiro station (around $1 USD), Tigre offers boat rides through jungle waterways — a total contrast to the urban buzz.
- Explore the Puerto Madero waterfront: Walk across the famous Puente de la Mujer bridge, enjoy coffee along the docks, and visit the ecological reserve for a peaceful escape from the city noise.
- Catch a live show in Corrientes Avenue: Buenos Aires has a thriving theatre scene concentrated along Avenida Corrientes. Quality productions run for as little as $10–15 USD per ticket.
Practical Tips
- Currency exchange: Use licensed exchange houses (casas de cambio) or banks to access the blue dollar rate legally. Avoid street money changers to stay safe.
- Getting around: The SUBE card is your best friend — load it up and use it on the subte (metro), buses, and trains. A single journey costs less than $0.50 USD. Uber and Cabify also operate reliably here.
- Dining hours: Locals eat dinner late — restaurants don't fill up until 9pm or later. If you arrive at 7pm, you'll likely be eating alone.
- Safety: BA is generally safe in tourist areas, but stay alert in crowded spaces and keep phones out of sight on busy streets. Stick to well-lit areas at night.
- Tipping: Around 10% is standard in restaurants. Always carry small peso notes for tips and small purchases.
Getting There
Plan your trip to Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is served by Ministro Pistarini International Airport, known as Ezeiza or EZE, located about 35km south of the city centre. Direct flights operate from major hubs including Miami, New York (JFK), Madrid, London (Heathrow), and São Paulo. LATAM, Aerolíneas Argentinas, American Airlines, and Iberia are common carriers. A taxi or remis (private car service) from EZE to the city centre costs around $30–40 USD and takes 45–60 minutes depending on traffic. Pre-book your transfer to avoid inflated prices at the arrivals hall. Note that some domestic and regional flights use the closer Jorge Newbery Airport (AEP), just minutes from the city centre.
Accommodation Options
- Budget: Milhouse Hostel in the city centre is a legendary backpacker spot with dorms from around $15 USD per night and a great social atmosphere.
- Mid-range: The Krista Hotel Boutique in Palermo offers stylish rooms, a rooftop terrace, and a fantastic location from around $80–110 USD per night.
- Luxury: The Alvear Palace Hotel in Recoleta is a Buenos