Fes
Morocco's cultural + spiritual capital — Fes el-Bali medina, tanneries + Al Qarawiyyin (world's oldest university)
Fes is Morocco's cultural + spiritual capital — Fes el-Bali is the world's largest car-free urban area + a UNESCO World Heritage site. Chouara Tanneries (photograph from surrounding leather shops), Al Qarawiyyin (founded 859 CE — the world's oldest continuously operating university), medersa architecture + intense authenticity.
Fes highlights
Chouara Tannery
The famous coloured leather dye pits. View from Terrasse des Tanneurs shop balconies (they hand you mint leaves for the smell).
Al-Attarine Medersa
14th-century Quranic school with exquisite zellige + carved cedar. Free-ish (MAD 20).
Bou Inania Medersa
Larger + more elaborate medersa — MAD 30 entry.
Al Qarawiyyin
The world's oldest continuously operating university. Non-Muslims can only view from outside.
Fes el-Jdid + Mellah
The "new" city (14th-century) + former Jewish Quarter. Escape the medina crush.
Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts
Traditional carpentry + former caravanserai — worth entry MAD 20 + rooftop view.
Riad overnight (Riad Fes)
The city of great riads — Riad Fes, Palais Amani, Dar Roumana famous.
Guided walking tour
The medina has 9,000+ streets — a guide (MAD 500-800/day) is genuinely worth it.
Getting there
Fes-Saïss Airport (FEZ) has direct flights from Paris, Madrid, London + other European cities. From airport: 20 min taxi. Train from Casablanca (3h 30m) or Marrakech (7h).
Getting around
Walking in the medina (impossible for cars). Petit taxi between medina + ville nouvelle ~MAD 15. No Uber.
March-May + September-November. June-August is 35°C+. December-February can be cool + rainy.
$25-50 backpacker riad · $60-150 mid-range boutique riad · $300+ luxury (Sofitel, Palais Amani)
Airport transfer from Fes-Saïss (FEZ)
Getting out of Fes (FEZ)
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